I have a lot of curly haired clients because I specialize in cutting curly hair. There are so many different types and textures of curls that finding the right combination of products and styling techniques can be tricky. So I’m going to simplify how to achieve the best curls for your hair.
Styling Technique for Curly Hair:
- Clarify with a sulfate shampoo before beginning. This will cleanse your hair of any silicones which are not water soluble.
- Get your hair trimmed by someone who specializes in cutting curly hair. There are different cutting techniques for different type of curls. You should have you hair trimmed/re-shaped every 4-6 months. A 1/2-inch or 1/4-inch trim is usually enough to get rid of split ends. Long, rounded layers are more suited to curly hair–short layers tend to stick up and look funny. Curly hair usually consists of a combination of textures, with the crown being the curliest part. For this reason it’s hard to tell what dry curly hair looks like when wet – consider having your hair cut dry. Also, take into account that curly hair is much shorter when dry than wet. You may lose only two inches while wet, but that could be four or five while dry! Keep in mind that razor cuts are not generally good for curly hair.
- Shampoo and Condition your hair with a non-sulfate shampoo. Sulfates tend to strip the hair of its natural oils. Once you take away the sulfates, your hair can retain its moisture naturally. Women with curly hair shouldn’t shampoo their hair more than 2- times a week. I recommend only using conditioner to “shampoo” your hair if you can break yourself from the mindset of having to use shampoo. Just be sure to scrub your scalp with your fingertips the same way you would with shampoo to get rid of dirt and oil.
- While the conditioner is in your hair, brush through your hair in the shower with a wide tooth comb or fingers.
- Next part your hair the way you will style it, and let cool water run down to rinse out the conditioner.
- Don’t brush your hair after this, it will disturb the curl pattern. take a towel that absorbs water well (I use a sarong) and scrunch your hair to encourage your curls.
- Apply product. Do this while your hair is wet (if you have curlier hair) or wait five minutes or so (if you have medium to wavy curly hair). Smooth or rake the product into your hair by sections. I recommend using a leave-in cream or conditioner to decrease frizz and then follow with a gel for hold and definition. (Using your normal conditioner as a leave-in is fine too.) However, use whatever type and order of products you like (as long as they are silicone free). Next, finger shape the curls by scrunching them and twisting individual curls around your finger. Once the excess water is out, put product in without disturbing the curl pattern. I use the same scrunching technique.
- Create volume: If I want more volume at the roots I put a root boosting spray on them and use small metal pin-curl clips at the roots to add volume. (See photo.)
- Try not to touch it too much while it’s drying – unless there is a part that is drying straight. In this case you can wrap it around your finger and scrunch it again to get it to do what you want.
- If you have long hair you can wrap in in a sarong to decrease the drying time. The technique I recommend is to take your sarong and lay it over a chair. Then flip your head over and allow your curls to lay on the towel in a spiraled shape. Then take the corners of your sarong and roll them around your head folding them under to secure. By this point you will look like Aunt Jemima and your curls will scrunch and dry all at the same time. Amazing!
- When it is dry you can fluff it up a bit. Flip your head over and use your fingers at the roots to give it volume. Sometimes I tease the ends a bit while twisting the section to make it look more wild. I like to add a few curls with the curling iron because my curls don’t always do what I want, and I like the messy look.
- Try it and let me know what you think. If it doesn’t work the first time try a different product or post your questions here and I will be sure to reply.
- Recommended Reading: “Curly Girl” by Lorraine Massey & “Ouidad”.
